Nina Ricci F/W 09 Paris | Bostonista: Nina Ricci F/W 09 Paris

Thursday, March 5, 2009

Nina Ricci F/W 09 Paris


I can't decide if I love or hate this collection.
Was Olivier Theyskens trying to save his job by creating a more consumer friendly collection or was it a big "F you!" to his boss, Mario Grauso, who tried to fire him earlier this year?
Between those shoes and, is it just me or or does that leotard make it look like she might have a penis, it has to be a joke right?

I am so disappointed with Nina Ricci as of late. Olivier is (was?) one my favorite designers because he designs collections with emotion and with such an ethereal aesthetic. His vision is nostalgic, romantic, and whimsical. That vision always separated him from the rest of the pack.

Now, with this collection, I am sensing that his romanticism is dead. It makes me sad to think there is 'no room' in the fashion industry for his ethereal dreams...

I'm trying to figure out if I would have had such a strongly negative reaction by this if it was from another designer. I mean, the clothes are ridiculous for the most part, and it's not the best take on the eighties I've seen, but most of my dislike of this comes from the fact that it couldn't be less Olivier Theyskens.

The shapes, the embellishment, the eighties...it's all foreign for him, at least since his turn at Rochas, and it's not territory that I can honestly say I'm interested in seeing him explore. Certainly his work before Rochas was subversive but it was never garish or obvious. He wasn't about latex goth or wooing the Paris Vogue crew. I think that's what made him remarkable, the fact that his collections had so much integrity, consistence and confidence! This collection lacks confidence because it feels so desperate to appeal to a much wider audience. Olivier is capable of capturing women on a level that's less cartoon-like and more modern, powerful, and dignified.

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I can't believe none of the models fell in those shoes! I hope they offered them some kind of model insurance because if one of them HAD fallen those were some damn leg breaking shoes. And it would be bad for a model to fall and break their leg on basically the first day of Paris fashion week!

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8 comments:

Becca Jane said...

I have to say I'm not sure about this collection, particularly the shoes. They frighten me a little!

Lindsay said...

Oh my goodness! Those shoes! How could the models even walk in those?

Cafe Fashionista said...

That red dress is super gorgeous!

Anonymous said...

I could not agree with you less. I thought that it was an amazing farewell collection. I loved the way he combined the 80s trends with refined tailoring and elegance. The shoes may have been unrealistic but in my opinion, that made the collection far more romantic. Romanticism is whimsy and an idealized version of reality. I think 11 inch heels are exactly that!

Secretista said...

I also am not sure what to make of this collection.

M said...

the shoes, OMG, frightening. stilettos are in i guess is their point?

angela said...

this collection goes completely over my head...

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