Chanel Haute Couture SS 09!

Only Karl Lagerfeld could make a collection almost entirely in white (with some notes of black) and keep me riveted. Karl looked to the uplifting inspiration of a piece of paper for Chanel's couture this troubling financial season. What is more hopeful or full of more possibilities than a blank piece of white paper? 

It seemed as if the clothes were simply wearable origami so precisely folded and shaped were the shoulders, waists and hemlines. It was like the most supremely elegant paper dolls had emerged from thin air with just a snip here or there of Lagerfeld's scissors. 

But of course paper wasn't the only material (the headpieces by Kamo were actually created with paper) used in the collection. Organza, tweeds, lace with crystal beads, pearls, ribbon trim, taffeta and chiffon were used in their airiest forms to create the most ravishing details. And if paper was his inspiration than white flowers (roses, camellias, and peonies) were the dreamy result. 

As the collection was looking towards a bright future away from our current darkness Karl did make one change in a nod to frugality: for the first time in many seasons he didn't show at le Grand Palais with massive statues of Chanel's iconic imagery but favored the intimate setting of the Pavillon Cambon Capucines. And in case you were wondering Freja opened the show and was the bride! Bravo Freja!

Dior Haute Couture SS 09

It was hard to ignore the French haughtiness of the confectionary-like gowns that swept down the Dior runway. It was as if John Galliano said, "Let them eat cake!" in response to questions of global economic meltdown.
Still, it was beautiful but dull at Dior. 

Maybe if another designer had done this collection it would be hailed for its construction and patterns but I think we hold John Galliano to a higher standard.  He didn't do anything new but I did feel more of an emotional reaction to this collection than anything he did last year. Still, it feels like Galliano, when at his peak at Dior from 2001-2004, used to be able to take an array of inspirations to their most extreme and decadent and whip them into a fascinating, coherent collection. The Galliano flair and kitsch just seems to be missing for me.

Of course he is still a master courtier and Stephen Jones fantastical hats were amazing! 

The influence of Dutch artist Vermeer was clear in the beautiful yellows and blues throughout and continued with more seventeenth century references such as paper scroll hips, cross-lace corsets, and elaborate collars. I especially liked the Delft porcelain prints on the sumptuous fabrics. Once or twice I even thought, "THAT is the dress Michelle Obama should have worn!"

Wouldn't that dress have been just divine on Michelle Obama? It seems like a modern take on Colonial Virginia to me.

It's Couture Week!

Model down at Chanel! Lots of fun couture updates are coming!