You guys know I'm a huge fan of Rodarte. I think the Mulleavy sisters are artistic geniuses.
I respect their vision. The shapes were as perfect as ever but this wasn't my favorite Rodarte presentation.
This collection was certainly a kind of evolution for the brand- It went from Gothic to angelic. The girls know that they need to keep moving forward because (even with their unbelievable construction skills) they were on the edge of being pigeonholed.
The construction and silhouettes were breathtaking and I adored all of the white garments. Nicholas Kirkwood once again designed the shoes- they looked like candles dripping wax and actually lit up inside the heels. Kitschy but beautiful. I also loved the sheer, silk pants embroidered with flowers and crystals. Practical? No. Gorgeous? Yes!
It was the floral prints that threw me off. I was happy to see them let soft whimsy in (it had worked so well with the Target collection) but sometimes the prints were so busy that I could barely see the designs behind them.
Did you catch the Marc Jacobs show last night? It was streamed live via MarcJacobs.Com and I have to say that it was the best live stream of a fashion show that I've seen yet!
The production was fantastic with cameras perfectly positioned so that those of us who weren't lucky enough to be there in person could see all of the garments from all angles. Plus, the feed was smooth and never dropped out unlike some of the shows that have aired on ShowStudio.Com
Anyway, on to the collection!
I loved this collection.
I usually think of Marc as all spectacle but this was an elegant and non-flashy affair.
The color palate was mostly quiet- grays and beige, soft yellows and whites and the clothes, as a whole, were sweetly understated.
If you know old Marc Jacobs collections than you'll see references to his past throughout the collection which created a mood of dreamy nostalgia but it still seemed fresh.
The clothing reminded me of the early 30s- as Americans were struggling with the Great Depression and trying to pick themselves back up. Women had to be frugal and it was one of the first times that women of a certain class needed to work to support their families. They were women of perseverance and their clothes reflected that. As our own society begins to recover Marc's modern take on Great Depression style is both comforting and hopeful. Women today want to be pretty but they want to show just how strong they are too. Marc definitely accomplished that with this collection!
On a less abstract note I especially loved the nearly shoulder length gloves, the fur, the bags and the small pops of yellows and greens that ran throughout.