Thursday, March 25, 2010
The best part of Louis Vuitton this season?
Marc Jacobs cast mostly real women this season (well, okay, they were still models but they were older and closer to a size four than a zero) to emphasize the curvy silhouette of the clothing.
With all the talk about the fashion industry trying to combat unhealthy lifestyles it is nice to see at least one designer changing their ways- for one season at least.
Who'd expect SI swimsuit cover model Bar Refaeli to be so comfortable on a runway that isn't Victoria's Secret? Even Bar seemed surprised to have actual clothing on!
If you like Mad Men, glamour and the female body you'll like this collection.
(Click on the thumbnails to see a bigger version of each look!)
Wednesday, March 24, 2010
Here are the looks I liked from some of the other Paris Fashion Week shows...
Jean Paul Gaultier's haute gypsy collection has given me an excuse to those neon colored AA have been too shy to wear out of the house!
Nina Ricci hasn't been the same since the departure of Olivier Theyskens but Peter Copping may have begun to come into his own this season with his romantic, feminine collection.
Like YSL the Rick Owens collection had surreal nuns but rather than cloistered and passive they were powerful and in possession of their aggressive sexuality. Looking past the usual Gothic styling the pieces can be worn and loved by any woman- the leather jackets with skinny jeans or girlie cocktail dresses, the dresses without the tights and leather and fur can be traditionally sexy for a date and the skirts and tops can easily be turned professional for the office.
For the past couple of seasons I've felt that John Galliano's collections for Dior were too literal in their influences especially for ready-to-wear. They were repetitive and so much less inspiring than his past shows.
But just as I thought he had lost his touch he turns out a simply beautiful collection! Yes it rehashes his obsession with British equestrienne life but for all the leather and jodhpurs there was interesting knitwear pieces, and tiny chiffon pieces that would be just as beautiful on a date in Manhattan as they would as a formal dinner for 12 at your country estate. My favorite pieces were the most lingerie inspired and, of course, I always have a weakness for thigh highs so there was plenty to covet!
Click on the thumbnails to check out my favorite looks from the collection...
Tuesday, March 23, 2010
“Anorexia is sometimes the only form of control the girls have to contribute to their career.”- Natalia Vodianova
Yes, I know Anna Wintour spoke at Harvard last night.
Yes. Michael Kors too.
And yes, that was Natalia Vodianova with them.
No. I wasn't there.
That was pretty much how all of my conversations went today.
For those Bostonian's privilleged enough to attend (I noticed that a lot of the best Boston bloggers didn't attend so I won't take my lack of invite personally...) Anna directed a conversation about the CFDA's Health Initiative to discourage eating disorders in models.
As far as I can tell the presentation was no different than the past two New York CFDA Health Initiative panels. Anna discusses what can be done, famous American designer pledges to change their ways and abide by the CFDA guidelines, and then an available supermodel confesses to self-doubt/cruel casting directors/eating disorder/glorious recovery/now working successfully on their own terms.
Michael Kors recounted hiring an "It" model for a runway show without a casting only to immediately call her agency when she arrived- the poor girl's back was badly bruised along her spine. She was so unhealthy that her own spine was actually bruising her from the inside. Kors also focused on the age of models by pledging not to hire girls under the age sixteen because, “We need to give these girls a chance to grow up.”
Michael, I'm 24 and not grown up--I can't imagine that pressure at 16. But at least he's trying.
Finally, Natalia spoke about her own experiences as a model- the lack of support for girls arriving in foreign cities, the temptations of a "glamorous" lifestyle, and the insensitive comments and "suggestions" of designers, casting directors and stylists.
But I found Natalia's comments the most poignonent because we all know that eating disorders are rarely about being thin-even in the fashion industry.
"(In modeling) it is very hard to have a feeling of stability. Anorexia is sometimes the only form of control the girls have to contribute to their career.”
Wednesday, March 17, 2010
Monday, March 15, 2010
I know Stefano Pilati said the collection wasn't about religion but I can't help but see references to Catholicism throughout the collection. From the somber habits to the Cardinal purples to a braided rope belt reminiscent of a monk's waist- it seemed like he was dressing the saints of the future.
(click the thumbnails for full size!)
I don't often associate Chanel with fake fur (or fake anything for that matter) so I was shocked when I read that Karl Lagerfeld's latest collection was full of faux fur!
Despite the fake fur the collection was much closer to couture than the ready-to-wear it claimed to be! Sticking to a mostly brown, white (oh how I love Chanel white dresses...) and black the Chanel client will be ready for primal, if not decadent, arctic living come fall.
And are these Chanel bags made to look like ice? LOVE!
You guys know that Karl is practically my god and I too would sell my soul to him to be a Chanel Ambassador so I really have nothing bad to say about this collection.